Wine Tasting for fun
If you enjoy wine, interesting food, and interesting scenery, visiting
vinyards
and wineries to sample the wares can be an interesting amusement on
vacation. While most people think of California or France when they
think of wine,
vinyards and wineries appear in many states and countries, and most
welcome
visitors. In the US, Wine is made in such unlikely places as Hawaii,
Alaska, Arizona, Utah, Colorado, Wisconsin, Illionis, Indiana, Rhode
Island, New
York,
Ohio, and I am
sure many more.
What to expect and how to plan
Many wineries are open to the public and offer both wine tasting and
tours. Most of those that are open to the public have great landscaped
grounds
including picnic areas and gardens, and almost all have gift and wine
shops. In areas where there are many places to visit there are
invariably local
guide maps available at hotels and tourist facilities that will show
you
where the wineries are, what the hours are and what they provide.
Most wineries now have websites, as do regional associations that
provide maps, hours, and other information on an area. Fees vary
widely, though the most common arrangement seems to be a complementary
tasting
of small sips of a few popular wines (or a the opportunity to taste 3
or
4 wines from a large list), and a fee for tasting the rarer reserve,
"library",
or special vintage wines. Reserve wines are nothing more than wines the
wine maker thought were particularly good and chose to designate that
way,
and cost more and are often made in limited quantity. "Library" tasting
usually refers to tasting older wines which the winery has held back
from
sales and aged on its own. Prices can be steep, but the experience is
unique. At many places the special tastings include a logo glass from
the winery. Nice for a special occasion or stocking a collection, but a
bit fragile
for airplane travel. In really popular areas, like the Napa
valley, expect many wineries to charge for all tastings. The fee
is often applicable towards the purchase of wine. Tastes (and
tasting fees) can usually be shared between two people. This is
actually a great way to ration consumption without diminishing the
experience since there is usually plenty in a pour for 2 people, and by
getting it in one glass you get enough to make sure you are tasting the
wine they just poured and not a mixture of the last 3 pours.
Consider
also trading tastes when confronted with a large list (two people
select two similar wines from the list in each taste and trade tastes
to compare the two, a good way to help differentiate the wines and also
sample more kinds of wine while not having too much)
Many wineries also sell interesting food products such as
chocolates,
vinegars, or mustards made with wine or products to go with wine. These
are sometimes available for tasting as well. The wineries usually
arrange
their wines in the preferred order for tasting, white wines before red,
lighter
wines before heavier, and sweet or desert wines last. Stick with the
recommended
order, but feel free to skip anything you know you aren't interested
in. The staff isn't going to be offended. In fact they will in most
cases be
happy to help you learn to taste the wine and tell you what you should
be
tasting. Don't be surprised if you don't get the same apricots or plums
that the experts tasted, but it's fun to try. Always feel free to dump
out
any wine you aren't happy with or just feel you got too much of. It's
easy
to get too much wine if you are tasting at a few different places so
know
your limit. The best advice is drink lots of water, stop after
one or two wineries to have some food and/or take a tour or do
something else to slow down.
Many wineries have tours of their facilities available, mostly for
free. It's worth doing this from time to time even though after a while
you will
learn a lot about how wine is made. The cellars are always different
and
the process is always interesting. Tours can also be a good way to
space
out the tasting to avoid having too much.
Buying and Travelling with wine
Of course the whole point from the winery's perspective is to sell you
wine. A good thing to find out if you like a wine is whether or not it
is likely
to be available in your area. They will be glad to tell you, and even
look
up what stores or distributors carry their products. Some wines though
are
only sold locally or only at the winery. These are probably the ones to
focus your purchases on, especially if the wine has to be lugged back
on
an airplane. Wineries can ship only to selective states (though some
seem
to have gotten around this in various ways), so you will learn quickly
whether
your state is a "reciprocal state" (good), and whether you can order
wine. If you order it expect to pay shipping and ship to a street
address where
an adult is available to sign for it. Virtually all wineries are
willing to ship your purchases to you if they can. Shipping is
most economical by the case. A few may even be willing to combine
wine they sold you with bottles you bought elsewhere into a case,
though fewer do this than once before. Another option is to
take your bottles to a shipper (e.g UPS). There are also
specialized wine packers and shippers. Generally you will pay for
everything, so if you can manage to acquire a shipping box (wineries
sell them at various prices) and pack it yourself you will pay less
than if you have the shipping agency pack it or buy the box from
them. (There are two kinds of shippers we have seen, ones with
styrofoam liners with wine bottle shaped cutouts that are very secure
and expensive, and cheaper ones using fiber/separators to stack the
wine. We've never had any breakage from the cheaper shippers.
Most wineries now have wine clubs, where they ship you sample
bottles
and their literature year round. These are fun, but you may not need
wine
as often as they ship it. Find ones that ship infrequently if you just
want
to try it every once in a while. Many now offer options to ship only
twice a year with more bottles in each shipment, which not only saves
on shipping costs, but also minimizes the times someone needs to be at
home to sign for the shipment and usually avoids shipping in summer or
winter where extreme temperatures can be bad for the wine. Wine
club members can buy at a
discount
and get access to special events at the winery, nice if you are in
driving
distance.
If you fly home and take the wine with you, find out what your
airline
allows. With the rules on liquids you can no longer take it on
the plane as carry on (a real pity, we used to pack a case in our
backpacks) You can check it, but make
sure you pad it well or preferably get a shipping box to check, which
is designed for rough handling. Better yet, just ship it from a
UPS store or other shipper if your state allows and avoid the hassle.
Making a vacation out of it
You don't want to spend a whole day tasting wine, but combining wine
tasting
with golf, hiking, museums, or other attractions is a relaxing vacation
in
many places. Wine growing areas have many bed and breakfast
accomodations,
and usually resorts and conventional hotel/motels as well. There are
often
good restaurants in the area. In Northern California, for example, we
found
we like the FountainGrove inn (Santa Rosa), which is convenient to wine
tasting,
golf, and other attractions. Hotels in wine country sometimes
have evening tastings where local producers let you sample their wines.
Special events
Wine country is full of special events and competitions. Wine auctions
are a place where you can come to buy rare wines and often are done in
conjunction
with special tastings. Wineries often have special dinners for their
wine
club members and other special guests, with gourmet foods and of course
the
best wines. Barrel Tasting is another interesting phenomenon. Generally
this happens in the spring and often all the wineries in one area will
do
it at the same time. The Sonoma valley wineries sell tickets to it as
an event, while the Russian river area wineries simply do it as a
festival weekend. Basically Barrel tasting allows you to sample wine in
the barrel before
it has finished aging and truely become wine. The taste can be quite
different. The wineries will sell "wine futures", by allowing you to
buy in advance
at a discount based on what you tasted in the barrel. Many have
interesting
interesting
food during these events, and often the wineries will have all their
wines open for
tasting. Basically
a big party. The challenge is not to over indulge. There
are a lot of other festivals, but many aren't as good a deal (For
example Paso Robles has a Zinfandel festival with food and wine, but
each winery is priced independently, making it hard to sample a lot.
Winery locations and reviews
Here are some we have visited and some of what they do
Napa Valley
The Napa Valley is probably the largest growing area of premium wines
(Much
more wine is grown in California's central valley, but the conditions
there
are not the best and most of it is sold as inexpensive table wines).
It's
also got the most resorts, crowds, and probably the highest prices. The
valley is just that, a long broad valley with two roads going up the
edges. Most of the wineries are on one or the other. The wine train
also operates
in this valley and can give a tour of the area with wines and food to
taste. Here are some of the places we have visited
Mondavi
An interesting spanish mission style building, with a very nice tour
and
elegant outdoor tasting. The tour was very popular when we took it
(early
1990s) and hard to get on, but very intersting
Praeger Port Works
This is a very small winery almost hidden behind the much larger Sutter
Home Winery, which specializes in ports. The "tasting room" is a corner
of the cask room where the wine is aged and members of the Praeger
family
pour the wine. They charge for the experinece but the charge is
refundable
on a purchase. The wines aren't cheap, but are unusual and very good.
Hans Kornel Champagne
By all means visit a champagne maker and learn how the bubbles get in
the
bottles. Kornel had an interesting tour as I recall.
Berringer
This is one of the prettiest locations and also one of the most
popular. The tour is very nice, including a visit to their caves cut
into the sides
of the mountain and a short tour of the mansion that houses the tasting
room. They have nice gardens and a picnic area. Expect crowds here.
Sterling Vineyards
Sterling is at the north end of the valley with the winery on top of a
hill. When we have visited we sometimes got to the top by a chairlift
(charge
for this as I recall), by walking up a long road, or once by driving
it. The cellars are interesting and the tasting is good, but as I
recall at
least a significant fee is charged here.
Sonoma Valley
Sonoma is a town, a county, and a valley, all of which produce wines.
The
valley is smaller and narrower than Napa, and the county includes many
other
wine growing regions. While less famous than Napa, we like Sonoma
valley
and particularly some of the outlying regions of the county better --
fewer
crowds, fewer charges, and some excellent and hard to find wines.
Kenwood
The Kenwood wines are widely distributed, but the winery has many more.
The tasting room is in an old barn, with nice gardens, and while they
charge
extra for their reserves they will often pour some for you if you seem
to
be serious about tasting their wines. Kenwood runs tours as well.
If you taste here, try the reserve list, which has many wines that are
hard to find elsewhere.
McClaren
This small winery has a tasting room in Sonoma off the square, where
the winemaker (whose name isn't Mcclaren) pours. We discovered
his wines first at Talty Vineyards in Dry Creek, which is still where
he has his vineyards, but he moved his tasting room to Sonoma. He
has excellent high end Syrah's from various locations, as well as a
decent Sauvignon Blanc.
Lake Sonoma/Valley of the Moon
Valley of the Moon has been in the valley for many years (in fact it
takes it's name from one of the popular nicknames for the sonoma
valley). They produce nice wines but we never found them
exceptional. Lake Sonoma recently moved there -- their 3rd
tasting room location. Their wines are actually grown in the dry
creek valley. We have really liked all their red wines,
especially Zinfandels and Cabs. The combined tasting room though
isn't especially freindly to purchasers (a steep tasting fee not
applied to your purchase) and in recent years they've kept the best of
the Lake Sonoma wines only for the wine club. (*** Note that in
2015, this winery was renamed to something like the Madrone Estate, the
original name of the property. The Madrone/Valley of the Moon
wines continue, but the Lake Sonoma wines have been signficantly
reduced)
Deerfield Ranch
This is a small winery near Kenwood with a unique tasting room.
You walk into a network of tunnels under the hillside that serve as the
cellar and sit in a living-room like atmosphere while the staff bring
you tastes. Yes, there's a steep fee for this and yes, the wine
isn't cheap, but it's a nice experience and some excellent wines. (You
may not want to take a large vehicle on the one lane road that reaches
it though) (*** Note that in 2015 the wines seemed less good, and
another winery told us they were in bankrupcy. We will see)
Matanzas Creek
Not in Sonoma valley but near it on one of the back roads to Santa
Rosa, this winery is very out of the way. They
have great gardens and interesting wine, and the drive out there is an
adventure.
ArrowWood
This is a small winery with fantastic cabernets and other red wines.
They
charge for tasting, especially the good stuff (Note that the
winery was sold several years ago and while the winemaker remains the
same and still has an excellent reputation, the current owners, a large
corporation with holdings in many wineries, are involved in a bankrupcy
proceedings and as of March 2006 there was some speculation in the
local press over whether it would effect the wine)
Landmark
This modest winery at the upper end of the valley is actually owned by
the John Deere family. (Some of the wine names and decore reflect
a "farm machinery" theme). Nice gardens and excellent wines,
especially Chardonay. St Francis in the same area is also
excellent and has some interesting sculpture.
Sebastiani
The most interesting thing here is their carved wooden casks, which
adorn
the tasting room and various facilities on the tour. Excellent art
work. They make a lot of different red wines and have a good variety
for tasting.
Ravenswood
Near the town of Sonoma, If you like Zinfandels and other bold
tasting red wines this is the place (motto -- no wimpy wines and they
mean it). They are down a country road from Sonoma on a hillside
in a valley. We often buy a mixed case here, all excellent and
no two the same
Gundlach Bundshu
This one is south of Sonoma and very out of the way, a long drive on a
one
lane driveway. The winery is old and interesting, and the wines are
good. What is most intersting is some of the humor in the posters in
the tasting
room. (Note -- in 2006 the tasting room was redesigned and the
winery has dropped it's cheap "Bearitage" wines and refocussed on
varietals.
Cline Cellars
This is one of the last wineries you encounter on the road back towards
San Francisco, and open longer than most, so it gets crowds late in the
day. The wines here are quite different as they specialize in Rhone
valley varietals
not grown or not made into varietal (mostly one grape) wines elsewhere.
They also have several excellent Zinfandels from various single
vineyards.
They also have excellent mustards. Be sure to visit the
cages
of exotic birds outside the winery.
Roche
Another winery on the road back to the city with good reds
Russian River area
The Russian River area covers a lot western Sonoma county, and includes
different
growing regions including Dry Creek, Chalk Hill, and the Alexander
Valley. This area is more laid back than either Napa and Sonoma. Lots
of small
wineries with freindly staff.
Iron Horse
This is a small winery with a long one lane approach west of
Sebastapol. The wines we had here were excellent, though pricy, and the
view from the
porch they use for tasting quite nice. I'm not sure they are always
open
for Tasting. Their specialty is sparkling wines and big
reds. (Note that this place can get quite crowded on special
weekends and in spite of warnings about no limos and the one lane road,
they still come.)
Taft Steet
A small out of the way place near Sebastapol. We found they had
really great reds and good Chardonnay. Freindly people too.
They always seem to have good bargains. Very good Chardonay,
Pinot and Merlot in our experience.
Carol Shelton
This winery is in a warehouse in Santa Rosa, not a promissing site, but
has great Zinfandels. On Barrel tasting weekend we met the owner,
the wine maker (a retired commercial pilot) and most of the rest of the
staff.
Inspiration
This is an even smaller winery in the same industrial park setting as
Carol Shelton. A good variety of wines including some interesting
blends and a nice rich Rose.
Sunce
This winery in the Sebastapol area has a great Barrel tasting
spread, and lots of small lot reds to taste -- a dozen barrels of small
production wines and some very unusual varieties. Note that they
are very popular for Barrel tasting. In 2014 we couldn't attend
barrel tasting, but showing up on Monday got the place to ourselves,
still got to sample the barrels, and the leftovers from the weekend
food.
Baletto
Balleto now has their own building, again in the Sebastapol area.
They put on a great spread for barrel
tasting. We liked a number of red wines there. Good every
day Zinfandel as I recall.
Dutton Goldfield
This winery just opened their own tasting room just off highway
116. They have nice red wines, but are a bit pricey
Red Car
A brand new (2011) winery in the Sebastapol area. Nice tasting
room, but high prices.
Hop Kiln
Hop Kiln is a small winery on the west side of the river. What's
interesting
is the building, an old kiln for roasting hops. The inside has a lot of
historic exhibits. The wines we had there were no more than okay, but
they
also have an excellent stock of foods and an interesting picnic
area. (*** In 2015, they were going under a new name, something
like HJK vineyards. The wines were the same, but the food supply
was reduced).
Russian Hill
A small winery on, surprise, a hill in the russian river valley just
north of river road. We went on the recommendation of the owners
of Sunce and were not disappointed. In 2014 they had a great
bargain on a package of multiple vintages of their excellent Syrah.
Belvidere (RIP)
Also on west side road not far from Hop Kiln, this winery has usually
had a nice rich Chardonay we like. Last time we tasted a very
intense unfiltered Merlot here -- very unusal. They also put on a
great spread for Barrel tasting (***Note -- This winery folded
some time around 2008. I think even the building is now gone)
Matrix
This replaced the old Rabbit Ridge tasting room. We liked a
number of their wines. Early on they had a great Chard, but
recently seem to be more focussed on reds. This is a pretty place
but has a small parking lot.
Aramida
Also on on the west bank, this is another place with a sense of humor
and
some interesting twists. Their spread for Barrel Tasting was the best
of
any. (Comment -- they may only do food on the first weekend. They set
up the barrels in two outbuildings, the one with the
whites dressed up as "Heaven", usually complete with women dressed as
angels pouring and playing harps, and the other with the reds as Hell,
also suitably decorated. There's usually a long line to get into
Heaven, but Hell is bigger, has more people, and they seem to be having
more fun. They also have excellent chocolates
and a lot of interesting artwork and glassware on display. (Note
that this place is enormously popular during barrel tasting and
presumably any other "party" weekend. You may have to wait to get
up the road or park and walk. It's not a problem at all during
the week, in 2014 we were the only visitors on the property for about
an hour as we tasted, bought, then picniced on a spectacular day.)
Gary Farrel
A new winery on West Side road, near Guerneville. They are up a
long drive, a very scenic spot. Very rich Cabs and Merlot
(Note that this winery does not participate in Barrel Tasting)
Alexander Valley Vineyards
They are on route 128 in the Alexander Valley and produce good red
wines primarily. The "Two Barrel" blend was particularly
nice. Sadly, it is no more but they always have some interesting
blends produced as the result of a wine club "blending" event. We
had a VIP tour here recently as the result of meeting one of the owners
at a wine tasting event at a local store in Illinois)
Hanna
Hanna actually has two tasting rooms, one in the Sebastapol area and
one in the Alexander Valley (near Alexander Valley Vineyards).
Both put on an excellent spread for Barrel Tasting and both have good
Zin, Syrah, and other big red varietals.
StoneStreet
This winery is in the Alexander Valley near Hanna and Alexander Valley
Vineyards. It's a large facility and had nice wines, but not not
exceptional for the price in our experience.
Fieldstone
A small winery in the southern end of the Alexander Valley, which
tastes in their underground caves. Great reds and a fun place.
Chalk Hill
A small winery known for Chardonay on the twisty Chalk Hill road (near
the 101 end of the road). The wine was good, but they weren't
very accomodating in terms of barrel tasting.
Soda Rock
This winery is in the Alexander Valley near Hanna and Alexander Valley
Vineyards. This is a small tasting room. In 2013 we were
impressed with their wines and barrel samples, but they seemed less
exceptional in 2014.
Raymond Burr
This is the same Raymond Burr who played Perry Mason and Ironside for
years (dead now since 1994). In fact some of his acting awards
are on
display in the tasting room. The winery had some excellent red
wines (in fact two other tasing room pourers said they had the best
reds in the Dry Creek area). The winery is near the north end of
west dry creek road up a long drive from the main road.
Rodney Strong
Near 101, this is a convenient stop and good wine and tasting. The
tasting
room is on top of their pyramid shaped building and looks down on the
winery
facilities, with a self guided tour. Nice Zinfandels. In 2014
they had an excellent port as well.
J
This winery shares the same parking lot with Rodney Strong. Their
tasting
is quite different, serving samples of food and wine that go together,
for
a signficant fee. It would make an interesting lunch experience.
Geyser Peak
In 2015 Geyser Peak moved from a large property near 101 10 miles north
of Healdsburg to a small one just west of Healdsburg. Haen't
taste there since the move. Geyser Peak also has a
good reserve tasting. (For Barrel tasting they opened a $100 cab
for us to taste late in the day -- really special.)
Dry Creek Vineyards
At the upper end of the dry creek valley, they have a good mix of reds
and whites, nice picnic area, and some interesting stained glass (the
owner is a yachtsman and much of their artwork reflects that)
Talty
A small winery in the dry creek valley with great zinfandel and other
big reds, not usually open for tasting. The drive on the one lane
entrance through the vineyard is interesting.
Kendall Jackson
They are just off 101 north of Santa Rosa. Another winery with wide
distribution
and availability of their wines. Nice tasting room and gardens.
Ferrari Carano
Near Lake Sonoma, this winery has the best gardens of any we have
visited. Very interesting. The tasting isn't free, but the wines are
good and they
will take the tasting fee off a purchase. Be sure to visit the
barrel room on the lower level. (Note that this place doesn't
participate in Barrel Tasting, though given the location and other
attractions it can be a good place to make a last stop of the day after
4PM when Barrel Tasting ends)
Joseph Swan
This is a small winery in the green valley area (near Sebastapol)
that does outstanding zinfandels and robust reds. A good place to
visit on barrel tasting weekend (7 barrels to taste!) (Note that
this is another place with a small and awkward parking lot.)
Teldeschi
A small winery in the Dry Creek valley. We had high expectations
based on tasting Zinfandel from Ravenswood and others with grapes
bought from their vineyards (supposedly at least), but the wines were a
bit disappointing.
Limerick Lane
This is near Rodney Strong south of Healdsburg. They have
exceptional Zinfandels and robust reds. A smaller winery but
generally open for tastings
Christopher Creek
This is a very small place on Limerick lane. We liked their
reds. I think they are open for tasting generally, but are a good
one for Barrel Tasting.
Acorn
This is near Rodney Strong south of Healdsburg. This is another
small winery with very good big red wines and not usually open for
tasting. Acorn generally has good food provided by a local
restauarnt for Barrel Tasting.
Wilson
A small place in the Dry Creek Valley (one of the first you come to
from Healdsburg. Great Zinfandels, but at barrel tasting an
absolute zoo. Way too many party busses.
Fritz
This winery is off a side road near the end of dry creek. You
taste in an underground cave. The wines are okay, the setting
spectacular
Pedroncelli
A nice place on the road between dry creek and route 101 (Canyon
road). Not pretentious, but a nice variety of wines to taste.
Korbel
Korbel makes sparkling wines (aka Champagne), and offers tours of their
cellars. Again, it's worth touring a champagne maker or two just to
find
out how the process works, and theirs is a very good tour. Korbel
is one of the largest producers of quality sparklers and is a contrast
with some of the other small producers.
Paso Robles Area
This is often called "central cost". There are over 100
wineries in the inland town of Paso Robles on route 101, and it's a
great area for robust reds, with a climate that allows the grapes to
get very mature. It's not yet as touristy as the Napa/Sonoma
area, though a lot of wineries have tasting fees and or "purchase a
glass with a taste" deals (really a bad idea for airline bound
tourists). It's a great area for Syrah, Petit Syrah, and
Zinfandel, though most wineries import grapes from the cooler weather
areas (Monterrey, Sanata Barbara, etc.) to fill out a complete line.
Rabbit Ridge
We still like Rabbit Ridge, though the selection changed a bit after
they moved to Paso -- fewer Zinfandels and more Rhone varietals.
The big thing about them is they make some very drinkable bargain
wines, as low as $40/case, making it a great place to pick up some
every day wine. They are a bit out of the way north of Paso and
west of 101, not on all maps, and as of now at least open only on
weekends
Lohr
Lohr is north of Paso and east of 101 and makes some great wines.
Many of their big volume wines have national distribution and both the
Chardonay and the Cabernet are good bargains, but the tasting room has
a lot more limited production wines. Their "Gestures" series is
excellent for the price.
Eos
EOS was recently sold to another wine company who moved the tasting
room to where Firestone vineyards once was, along route46 not far off
101. While in the past they focussed on reds, since moving they
make a greater variety of wines. Not exceptional, but they always
seem to have good bargains on quantities.
Tobin James
They are a long way out on 46 East, but worth the trip. They were
recommended by someone we met locally as a source of good big reds, and
the tasting didn't disappoint. Really big Zinfandels, Syrahs,
Petite Syrah, and other varieties, expecially in their reserve
wines. Better yet, they have one of the
best wine club deals around -- two shipments of 8 bottles each a year,
each for a fixed price that's over half off the list, and free
shipping. Hard to lose, especially when all the wines are
outstanding..
Sylvester
This unlikely winery is on a goat track not far from Lohr. They
have a great food department (lots of cheese) in addition to good reds
sold under several different labels. (Note, I think this winery
was renamed or sold and may no longer produce the same things.)
Vino Robles
A new winery near 46 East. They have an interesting tasting room
with interesting artwork, and offer a wine and cheese pairing (worth
the extra cost). The wines are good and showed up on a couple of
restaurant wine liests.
Wild Horse
An out of the way winery south and east of Paso. They are known
for Pinot (quite good), but the tasting room has a big assortment of
wines. Don't judge them on their mass market wines (which are
decent, not awesome), but try the reserves and the tasting room only
varietals.
Meridian
Another winery with a big distribution of their "California" wines, but
some nice local wines that are available only at the winery. They
have a very nice garden. They also do a wine/cheese pairing
Eberle
On 46E near the Hunter Ranch golf course, this one was recommended to
us by a local. They have a wide assortment of good reds and what
impresses us seems to be different every year. Their grounds are
nice (including two steel sculptures of pigs), and they have nice
stained glass in their tasting room. They also offer a tour on
weekends.
Turley
This is one of several wineries on 46W that specialize in
Zinfandel. They have a great reputation and excellent wines, but
very high priced (and an expensive tasting)
4Vines
A disappointment. Another Zin speciallist near 46W, they didn't
have much to taste, but didn't reduce the tasting fee! (NOte -- I
think this winery folded or was renamed)
Peachy Canyon.
The name doesn't suggest great wine, but in fact this little place in
an old schoolhouse near 46W has great Zins and other robust reds at
reasonable prices. Also a nice tasting policy (reasonable fee for
a lot of tastes).
Zenadia.
A small winery near Peachy Canyon and Castoro featuring blends.
Great wines and a reasonable tasting deal.
Grey Wolf.
This is a very small winery on 46 West. We weren't all that
impressed with the wine.
Niner.
This is a new (2010) winery with nice wines, but relatively pricey both
for tasting and purchase. (The building itself is interesting and
very nice)
Castoro.
Another "46 West" winery with good Zins, Syrahs, and a variety of
reds. We once ordered a case here once. They have a nice picnic
area and are a good bargain.
Hunt Cellars.
This winery on 46W was a real winner. It's owned by a now blind
musician and the tasting room pourer said he supervises all the
blends and releases, feeling he can tell more about the wine than most
because of a heightened sense of. We
would agree based on our experience here. Many wines are released
signficantly more aged than others we tasted at. The wines aren't
cheap, but definitely worth it. (*** Look for specials and ask
for shipping specials. We hit one that allowed us free shipping
on 4 or more wines, including deeply discounted older vineyards)
Rotta.
One of the oldest wineries in the area with old vines Zinfandel and
many other wines. This one was recommended by a couple of people
but we weren't really impressed. (Maybe we didn't get to taste
their best stuff.)
PasoPort
This is a very small winery up a long one lane gravel driveway off a
side road near Rotta. They actually have two lines from what were
two wineries, one making ports and one red wines. The ports were
excellent and some very different.
Justin.
This winery is WAY out in the boonies west of Paso Robles, but the road
out there is actually not bad. They have some very nice red
blends, which is one reason we went, but were disappointed that the
tasting is more touristy (you have to buy a glass -- ugh!). They
also have a B&B and restaurant. A very nice setting though
with an educational display on training vines for wine growing.
Chronic Cellars.
Another winery out in the boonies and relatively new.
(2010?) All their wines feature "dead head" style artwork and
curious names, but the wines are excellent. Very low production
and limited distribution.
JanKris (Now renamed Veris)
Right across from Castoro. This winery has good bargain wines --
very reasonable price for good quality reds. They also have a
line of flavored sparkling and desert wines. As of 2011, this
winery was going under a different name (Veris) still using JanKris for
their wines.
Other places to taste wine
While then Napa/Snoma area is most famous for wine tasting, there are
wineries
in almost every state in the US and in many countries and the formula
is
almost always the same. Here are few places we have sampled.
Other parts of California
You can taste wine just about anywhere in California. Here are a few
places:
- Sierra Foothills. The region along the front of the sieras
between Sacramento and Yosemite is one of the newer wine growing
regions. We haven't tasted here but several pourers in tasting
rooms recomended it for Zinfandel and Port.
- Monterey county. Many wineries in the Carmel Valley area and in
the
inland towns along 101. Those in Carmel Valley are clustered in
one
town. There are tasting rooms in Monterey and Salinas that
feature wines from many wineries in this area. One of the better
experiences was at Ventana, whose tasting room is just off the main
highway from Monterey to Salinas (maybe particularly good for us since
they had leftovers from a special event and were pouring many of their
reserve wines on the free tasting). There are some excellent
small wineries near
the towns of Gilroy and Morgan Hill south of San Jose. (Try the Vino di
Mocha at Kirgin if you like dessert wines). There are also
wineries in the Salinas valley south of Salinas, but make sure you have
a
good map and an up to date guide. This area isn't really set up
for
tourists..
- Santa Cruz area There are many small wineries in the Santa Cruz
mountains,
as well as Lohr, which is in San Jose and produces some excellent
wines. These are mainly small operations so check hours. Storrs
in downtown Santa Cruz had one of the best Petite Syrahs we
tasted. Bonny Doone is an interesting spot in the redwoods with
dessert wines.
- Livermore. This is the site of the Lawrence Livermore
National Lab and a big wind power installation, but also great
grapes. There are now at least 3 dozen wineries.
Unfortunately
most open for tasting only on weekends, but you will find at least half
a dozen open every day of the week. In this area we like Wente
(which has 2 tasting rooms -- taste at the one off Tesla road and go
for the pricier tasting menus, but you can often get discounts on
that), Crooked Vine/Stoney Ridge (two places, one tasting room), and
Stephen Kent (awesome reds, sometimes they offer a
wine/cheese pairing.) Wente actually has 4 tasting facilities
plus a very nice golf course. You can often get discounts for one
from another.
- Point Reyes. Point Reyes vineyards, near the Point Reyes
seashore on route 1 may be the only winery in Marin county. The
wine was good, not great, but the real attraction for us is the blue
cheese they sell there from a local producer, aside from being a nice
rest stop on the drive north. (You can buy the cheese other places in
this area if they aren't open and it's well worth it). Note that
there is also a great little cheese maker about 10 miles inland on the
road from Point Reyes to Petaluma.
- Temecula. A valley with a couple dozen wineries,
unfortunately being overrun by urban sprawl. We found one (Hart)
with great reds. Most Wineries here wanted to charge a high fee
and leave you the glass -- not great for people taking them on
airplanes.
Washington State
The main growing area is in the valley east of the Cascades, but many
wineries
there have tasting rooms in the Seattle area. Their are many
wineries and tasting rooms along interstate 82 between Yakima and the
Tri Cities area. Too many to give much detail here but plenty of
nice places to taste. The Walla Walla area also has a great
collection of Wineries, some world famous. Get a local tasting
map and don't neglect the small ones with tasting rooms in the
industrial park adjacent to the local airport. There are also
locally
grown
wines near Seattle including on Whidbey Island in Puget Sound.
Oregon
Oregon has many good wineries in the central valley where I5 runs and
the surrounding slopes. Most are in the foothills of the coastal
ranges just south and east of Portland. Pinot Noir is the
featured grape, but they grow everything here.
Colorado?
Not known as a wine producing region, but there are several wine
producers in the valley near Grand Junction. There are also one
or two across the border in Utah, in spite of Mormon traditions and
liquor laws.
New York
New York grows wines in two areas, one in the Finger Lakes area and the
other north of Niagara Falls on the shores of Lake Ontario. The Finger
lakes
area is mostly sweeter wines, while the Lake Ontario area has a
variety.
Rhode Island?
Yes, there are wineries in Rhode Island along the ocean east of
Naragansset
Bay.
Hawaii?
Hawaii has at least 2 wineries, one on Maui on the slopes of Haleakela
famous
for pineapple wine, but also growing traditional grape varietals, and
another
near the Volcano on the island of Hawaii which produces unusual
tropical
fruit wines.
Alaska?
An Alaskan winery? You have to be kidding. No, not really,
Bear Creek Winery is in Homer AK, and makes wines from local berries
sometimes mixed with mainland grapes or grape wines. The wines
are interesting, and the tasting experience is very good (at least as
of June 2011). Their wines appear on restaurant menus across
Alaska. (Alaska also has several "meaderies", which make an
alcoholic fermented beverage from local honey.
Canada
Canada produces wines in at least 2 areas, one on the south shore of
Lake
Ontario near the wine growing area in New York, and the other in the
valleys
in the southern part of British Columbia, with a climate like
Washington
State. They welcome tourists though there is a charge to taste in many
places. In 2009 we made a tour of the Okanagan valley, which in
many ways is similar to the California wine areas. In general the
wineries get more numerous and the wines more intense and complex as
you move south in the valley, but many wineries source grapes from the
southern part of the valley to complete their offerings. Here are
some we tasted at:
Grey Monk (Northern Kelowana)
This is a larger winery north of Kelowana. We enjoyed a good
experience here.
Australia
Austraila is a major wine producer. The Hunter Valley area north of
Sydney
is probably the most established and most famous, but most of the wine
is
actuall grown in South Australia near Adelaide. The Hunter Valley
struck
us much like Napa was 15 years ago before it got more commercial --
small
wineries, lodgings, and basically farm country.
France
France is probably still the top producer of wine in the world. I
am lucky enough to have been to Bordeaux several times for my "day" job
and had the opportunity to taste wines in the area. As in the US
there are places you can taste and tour for free and others which will
charge you. Some places, especially in the best known areas,
offer tastings only in conjunction with purchases (not clear how this
really works since you won't know if you want to buy until you
taste). The Medoc region northwest of Bordeaux features large
operations with large Chateaux to tour and is geared towards a tourist
trade, while the area near St Emillion and Pomerol to the southeast has
many very small wine makers (there are in fact thousands of them) and
is not as tourist oriented. We found that in contrast to the US,
where more wineries tend to be open on weekends, in France the smaller
operations were often open only week days and not during the lunch
"hour" (12-2). Many of the small towns feature a "Maison du
Vin", a wine store selling the products of the local area which offer
tastings, often for free. Do, however, tour a wine maker as the
age of the facilities and difference in techniques is
interesting. In the area near St Emillion the underground works
where they store the wine are amazing, especially considering most were
excavated by hand without disturbing the vineyards above. Keep in
mind baggage and customs limitations if you buy in France. Many
places advertise shipping to the US though I don't know how this works.